Barron Mamiya said he “almost died” down there in the first guinea pig heat with R-Cal and Jacob Willcox. After falling in front of the whitewater on an end section power belt, his leggie wrapped around a rock and he was pushed into a cave. He put his hands up and felt rock above him. This was the same reef that claimed the life of competitor Creed Barnes in the 1989 event. Barron ripped his leggie off and swam out through the foam. When he recovered his board, two fins were missing, the third chipped. Half an hour later, he was spotted at Beach Life, the local surf shop, buying a backup set.
Some might wail on the FCS piñata, but instead of blowing out the boxes and destroying the board, Barron was stoked to be able to pop a new set of fins in and keep surfing his magic craft through the heat.
“It’s a sick board. I had it shaped for Sunset and it goes really good over here, so I’m stoked I didn’t have to swap it out.”
Via Stab Magazine
Images: WSL